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Fantastic Fungi


By Robyn Bradley Litchfield
Montgomery Advertiser



October 18, 2006

Portobellos, white buttons, criminis, oysters, shiitake -- there are about as many different varieties of mushrooms as there are ways to use them. They can be grilled, sautéed, broiled or sliced and tossed into salads and soups.

Who knew fleshy fungi could be so fantastic?

"Mushrooms are one of those foods that you either love or hate," said Chef Rudy Bernard, one of the culinary arts instructors at H. Councill Trenholm State Technical College. "I'm from Europe, where we have even more variety, and I do like them. Personally, I enjoy them sauteed with butter, shallots, a little white wine, a little fresh cream and salt and pepper. It's simple but very good."

Though simple, the sautéed mushrooms could be eaten alone or served over a good steak, he said.

Mushroom uses range from the very sophisticated beef Wellington to the more simple mushroom soup, he said. (For some of us, that means that pesky can of cream of mushroom soup we keep in the pantry "just in case.")

One of Bernard's favorites is the chanterelle, which has a trumpet-shaped cap and goes well with a lot of wild game dishes. There also are black and white truffle mushrooms that are much more expensive and a favorite among connoisseurs.

"Portobellos are very nice, especially in the summertime when you do a lot of grilling. Or you can make a nice appetizer with them and stuff them with meat or vegetables and roast them."

Because mushrooms are about 80 percent water, he said, they are very moist. When shopping, look for firm mushrooms. Leave the soggy ones behind.

According to the Mushroom Council, composed of fresh market producers or importers who average more than 500,000 pounds of mushrooms annually, consumers should store mushrooms in a paper bag or keep them in the original package and refrigerate. To clean, use a soft brush to remove any traces of peat moss or soil or rinse quickly and pat dry.

And if all the different varieties and ways of preparing them seem a little daunting, Bernard said it can be fun to experiment. At the very least, give his sauteed mushrooms a try. Just thinking about it, he said, "They're delicious!"

More about mushrooms

  • White button: The most popular mushroom variety, white button represents about 90 percent of mushrooms consumed in the United States. They have a fairly mild flavor and go well with most anything. The flavor intensifies when they are cooked. Sauté them, cook them any way you'd like or eat them raw in salads.

  • Crimini (or cremini): These are baby portobellos and are similar to white buttons, but they have light tan to rich brown caps and a firmer texture. They have a deeper, earthier flavor than white buttons. Sauté, broil, microwave or cook them most any way.

  • Portobello (or portabella): The crimini's larger relative, portobellos have tan or brown caps that measure up to 6 inches in diameter. They have a deep, meat-like texture and flavor. Grill, broil or roast them and serve as appetizers, entrees or side dishes. These make a great vegetarian alternative to burgers.

  • Enoki: These have tiny, button-shaped caps with long spindly stems. They have a mild flavor and are crunchy. Before using, trim roots at cluster base, and separate stems before serving. They can be eaten raw in salads and sandwiches, but they also can be added to soups and stocks.

  • Oyster: These can be gray, pale yellow or blue with a velvety texture. Oyster mushrooms have a delicate flavor. Sauté them with butter and onions to bring out the flavor. They can be used over linguine with sliced steak, red peppers and a sprinkle of grated Parmesan.

  • Mattock: Also called "hen of the woods," mattock mushrooms appear rippling and fan-shaped, and they don't have caps. They have a distinctive aroma and a rich, woodsy flavor. Sauté these lightly in butter or oil.

  • Shiitake: These are tan to dark brown with broad umbrella-shaped caps, wide open veils and tan gills. They have curved stems, which should be removed. They are rich and woodsy when cooked and have a meaty texture. They taste best when cooked and can be used in stir-fry, pasta dishes, soups and more.

Source: Mushroom Council

 

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